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• HandoutHandout 1: Supply & Shopping List

  Handout 1: Supply & Shopping List ## Small Home Repairs: Doors, Windows, and Weatherproofing

  You don't need a big toolkit for this stuff. Honestly I'm a little suspicious of people who show up with a huge tool bag and no idea what half of it does. Below is what actually gets used, split into budget and nice-to-have, plus where I'd send you to buy it.

  Bring what you already own first. Half of you probably have most of this in a drawer somewhere.

  ---

  Tools — Budget Tier

  These will get you through class and most home jobs after.

  • Screwdriver set (flathead and Phillips, a couple sizes each)
  • Utility knife — for trimming weatherstripping and cutting old caulk lines
  • Putty knife, 1.5" — scraping, prying trim, general nudging
  • Wood chisel, one decent one, ¾" is fine — strike plates, planing door edges
  • Caulk gun, the basic kind, doesn't need to be fancy
  • Tape measure
  • Small level, torpedo size

  If you only buy one thing new for this class, make it the caulk gun. Cheap ones drip and skip. Spend the extra few bucks.

  Tools — Nice to Have

  • Hand plane (block plane) — makes door planing a lot cleaner than a chisel alone, but a chisel will do it
  • Cordless drill — handy for hinge screws and strike plate adjustments
  • Multi-tool (the oscillating kind) — good for trimming door sweeps and stubborn old weatherstrip, not required

  ---

  Materials — Budget Tier

  • Weatherstripping, V-strip or rubber, enough for one door or window (we'll measure in class)
  • Door sweep, one standard size
  • Caulk, exterior-grade, one tube — get the kind rated for the temperature you'll actually be working in. Read the label. I mean it, this is the thing everyone skips and then wonders why it peeled off by spring.
  • Sandpaper, medium grit, one sheet
  • Steel wool, one pad — good for stuffing small gaps before you seal them, keeps mice out too

  Materials — Nice to Have

  • Silicone caulk in addition to the standard tube, if you're working near a window that gets direct weather. Lasts longer, costs a bit more.
  • Foam backer rod for wider gaps under caulk
  • New hinges or a strike plate, if yours are actually worn out rather than just misaligned. We'll figure out in class which one you've got before you spend money on it.

  ---

  Shopping Notes

  A regular hardware store will have everything on the budget list, no need to go hunting. If you're doing a Costco run anyway, caulk and steel wool are cheaper in bulk there, but they won't have the smaller specialty stuff like V-strip.

  Skip the cheap felt weatherstripping if you see it bundled cheap near the door section. It looks like a deal. It compresses flat in one season and you'll be back doing this again next fall. Spend the extra couple dollars on V-strip or rubber gasket and do it once. That's just my opinion, but it's a strong one.

  For caulk, check the temperature range printed right on the tube before you buy it, not after. If you're planning to do exterior work later in the fall once it's cold, get one rated for low temps or you'll be redoing it in the spring like I did, in strings, off my own window.

  Bring whatever door or window hardware you're troubleshooting if it's small enough to carry. Half the time the fix is figuring out what's actually wrong, not buying a replacement part at all.

  🖨 Print / save as PDF
• HandoutHandout 2: Cheat Sheet — Doors, Windows & Weatherproofing

  Handout 2: Cheat Sheet — Doors, Windows & Weatherproofing

  Print this one out and stick it in the utility drawer. This is the stuff I actually look up or repeat to myself on a Saturday. Nothing fancy, just the numbers and settings that matter.

  ---

  First: Diagnose Before You Fix

  Nine times out of ten a stuck door or window isn't broken. It's dirty, swollen, or a screw needs a quarter turn. Before you touch a chisel:

  • Sticking door — check the hinges first (loose screws, then tight ones), then look for a shiny spot on the door or frame where it's rubbing.
  • Sliding door that sticks — check the track before you check anything else. Dirt and pet hair are the usual culprit, not the door.
  • Rattling window — check the sash lock before you touch weatherstripping. A loose or worn lock will make a window rattle even with new seals.
  • Foggy double-pane glass — that's a blown seal, not a cleaning problem. You can't fix it, only replace the glass unit. Don't waste an evening on it like I did.

  Planing a Door

  • Shave less than you think you need to. Take a little, test it, take a little more.
  • Wood moves with the seasons here — dry air in winter, swelling in summer. Over-plane in July and you'll have daylight showing under that door by January.
  • Mark the high spot with a pencil first so you know exactly where to take wood off, not the whole edge.

  Caulk

  • Check the temperature range printed on the tube. Most exterior caulk wants somewhere around 40–90°F to cure right. Colder than that and it just sits there looking done and then fails on you.
  • Do exterior caulking on a decent day. If it's a February morning, wait.
  • Clean and dry the surface first. Caulk over dust or moisture won't hold, especially with our hard water leaving film on things.
  • Cut the tip at an angle, small hole to start — you can always cut it bigger, can't uncut it.

  Weatherstripping

  • My pick is V-strip or a rubber gasket type. Costs a couple bucks more than the cheap felt kind but it holds up.
  • Skip the felt stuff if you can. It compresses flat in one season and you're just doing the job again.
  • A door sweep at the bottom of an exterior door is the best money-to-effort ratio in this whole course. Ten bucks, twenty minutes, noticeable difference.
  • Steel wool in any gap where something might be getting in (mice love a utility door gap) before you seal it up for good.

  Basic Tool List

  You don't need much:

  • Screwdriver (flathead and Phillips)
  • Sharp utility knife
  • Wood chisel
  • Caulk gun
  • Putty knife

  That covers most of what's in this course. I'm a little suspicious of people who buy a big tool set before they've learned to use a few things well.

  Know Your Limit

  • Glass and glazing — reglazing old single-pane windows with putty is a real skill and I'm honestly slow at it. Big single-pane job, call a pro.
  • Anything electrical — doorbells, exterior lights, don't touch the wire unless you actually know wiring. I don't, so I don't.
  • Vinyl and composite doors with foam cores — I came up on wood, and the newer prefab hardware varies a lot by brand. I'm still learning that one, no shame in it.

  That's the whole cheat sheet. Tape it inside the drawer, use it every October when you do your own walk-through.

  🖨 Print / save as PDF
• WorksheetHandout 3: Your Home Weatherproofing Walk-Through

  Handout 3: Your Home Weatherproofing Walk-Through

  This is the same lap I do every October, just written down so you don't have to remember it all. Print this, grab a pen, and actually walk your house room to room this week while it's fresh. Don't just read it at the kitchen table and mean to do it later.

  ---

  Doors

  For each exterior door, check these:

  • [ ] Close it. Is there daylight around the edges anywhere? Mark which side (top, bottom, hinge side, latch side): ______________
  • [ ] Weatherstripping — is it cracked, flat, or missing in spots? _______________
  • [ ] Door sweep on the bottom — present? Doing anything? _______________
  • [ ] Does it latch on the first try, or do you have to lift/shove/slam it? _______________
  • [ ] Threshold — any gaps, any wobble, any rot at the bottom of the jamb? _______________

  Notes on this door: _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________

  Repeat for each exterior door. Front, back, garage service door, slider if you've got one. Don't skip the one you never use, that's usually the worst one.

  ---

  Windows

  For each window, check:

  • [ ] Does it open and close without fighting you?
  • [ ] Sash lock — does it actually pull the window tight, or just flop shut? (Mine did nothing for a year before I admitted it. Fifteen bucks fixed it.)
  • [ ] Caulk around the exterior frame — cracked, missing, pulling away?
  • [ ] Feel for a draft with your hand around the edges on a windy day. Any spots: _______________
  • [ ] Any fogging between the panes? If yes — that's a seal failure, not a fix-it. Replacement job. Write it down and move on, don't waste an evening on it like I did.

  Rooms with the worst drafts, ranked: 1. _______________ 2. _______________ 3. _______________

  ---

  Quick diagnosis cheat sheet

  Before you decide something's broken, check the boring stuff first:

  Problem	Check this before you replace anything
  Door sticks	Track or hinge dirty? Screws loose? Paint buildup?
  Door won't latch	Strike plate aligned? Hinges sagged?
  Window won't slide	Track full of grit/hair? (This is more common than you'd think.)
  Draft you can feel	Weatherstripping compressed flat, or just missing
  Whistling sound	Small gap somewhere — go around with a lit candle or your hand on a windy day

  Most of this stuff isn't broken. It's dirty or out of adjustment. Slow down before you buy a new door.

  ---

  What to buy before next class (if you found problems)

  • [ ] Door sweep(s) — measure your door width first
  • [ ] V-strip or rubber weatherstripping — I like this over the felt kind, it holds up longer. Foam and felt compress flat in one season and you'll be back here next October redoing it.
  • [ ] Exterior caulk rated for the temperature you'll actually be working in — check the tube, don't guess
  • [ ] A door sweep or steel wool for any gap you found near the ground (mice love those)

  ---

  One line to write down and remember

  _______________________________________________________________

  (Something specific you found today that you didn't know was a problem. Write it now while it's fresh — you will absolutely forget by Tuesday.)

  🖨 Print / save as PDF
• HandoutHandout 4: Troubleshooting Guide — Common Beginner Problems and Fixes

  Handout 4: Troubleshooting Guide — Common Beginner Problems and Fixes

  Print this one out and stick it in a drawer somewhere. Most of what stops people isn't a hard fix, it's not knowing which easy fix to try first. Here's the order I'd go in.

  ---

  1. Door won't latch

  Nine times out of ten it's not the door, it's alignment. Close the door slowly and watch where the latch hits the strike plate. If it's hitting metal instead of sliding into the hole, you either need to move the plate slightly or take a chisel to deepen the mortise. Verl's back door had this exact problem for two winters before I got to it. Twenty minutes, done.

  2. Door drags on the floor or threshold

  Before you touch a plane, check the hinges. Loose hinge screws let the whole door sag and drag on one corner. Tighten those first. If it still drags, shave a little off the bottom, a little, not a lot. Wood moves with the seasons here. Take off too much in July and you'll have daylight showing through in January. Ask me how I know.

  3. Sliding door stuck or hard to move

  Almost never the door. It's the track. Vacuum it out, get a stiff brush in there, wipe it down. Braden was ready to buy a whole new door over this. It was ten years of dog hair.

  4. Window won't stay up, or rattles

  Rattling is usually the sash lock not doing its job, or not being used at all. Fifteen-dollar part, took me a year to admit that's all mine needed. If a window won't stay up on its own, the sash cords or the balance spring inside the frame has probably worn out, that's a bit more involved and might be a call-the-pro job depending on the window.

  5. Draft around a door or window you can feel with your hand

  This is what the fall walk-through is for. Run your hand around the frame on a windy day. If you feel air, you need weatherstripping, not a new door. Cheap fix, biggest bang for your buck of anything in this whole course.

  6. Weatherstripping that's already there but doing nothing

  Check if it's the flat felt kind. That stuff compresses down and quits after one season. I'd pull it and put in V-strip or a rubber gasket type instead. Costs a couple bucks more, lasts years longer. Jason and I redid his whole garage door over this. He won't hear the end of it.

  7. Gap under an exterior door

  Door sweep. Cheap, screws on the bottom of the door, blocks air and, bonus, blocks mice. Found where one had gotten into my utility room through a gap like this. Sweep and a little steel wool in the corner gap and that was that.

  8. Caulk peeling or cracking within a season

  Check what temperature it was applied in. Caulk has a cure range printed right on the tube and almost nobody reads it. I caulked a whole window one February morning, too cold, and by March it was peeling off in strings. Do this work in decent weather or don't bother.

  9. Screen door slams or won't close gently

  Closer arm needs adjusting, there's usually a screw or dial on the cylinder that controls speed. Takes two minutes once you find it. I've fixed one of these in church clothes at a ward party because I couldn't stand watching it happen twice.

  10. Window looks foggy between the panes

  Stop. That's a blown seal inside a double-pane window and there's no fixing it from outside. I spent an evening once trying to reseal one before I accepted it needed replacing. Save yourself the evening, it's a replacement job.

  ---

  A general rule that covers most of this list: diagnose before you fix. Clean it, tighten it, look closely, before you assume it's broken. Most of the time it's not.

  🖨 Print / save as PDF
• podcast_scriptClass podcast — episode 1

  Audio coming soon — show notes below.

  JESS: —okay but that's the part people don't believe, that a mouse got in through a door.

  MATTHEW: Oh they get in anywhere. Give a mouse a gap the width of a pencil and he's in your house, that's just true.

  JESS: This is Matthew Morris, by the way, everyone. We're recording episode one of the podcast for the door and window class a little rough because Matthew showed up mid-story and I didn't want to lose it.

  MATTHEW: Sorry, hi. Yeah. I'm Matthew, I teach the small repairs class, we start Thursday.

  JESS: Tell the mouse story. That's a good one to start on.

  MATTHEW: Okay so this was an October, few years back. I do a walk-through of my own place every fall, just a lap, check the doors, check the windows, see what the summer did to everything. And I get down by the utility door and there's this gap under it, and I could tell something had been at it. Little bit of chew, little bit of, you know. Evidence.

  JESS: Gross.

  MATTHEW: It's fine, it's a small thing. I got a door sweep, the rubber kind that mounts on the bottom of the door, and before I put it on I packed some steel wool into the gap first. Mice won't chew through steel wool, they hate it. Sealed it right up. No more mouse.

  JESS: And you were pleased with yourself.

  MATTHEW: I was pleased with myself for like a week. It's a small fix. But that's kind of the whole class, honestly. Small fixes that actually work, versus the big expensive thing people think they need.

  JESS: Give me an example of that gap, the thing people think is a big job.

  MATTHEW: Sure. Guy from my ward, Braden, calls me up, his sliding door won't slide right, it's sticking, he's already looking at replacement doors online. I go over there and it's not the door at all. It's the track. Ten years of dog hair and grit packed down in there like concrete. I vacuum it out, wipe it down with a rag, done. Fifteen minutes.

  JESS: He was ready to buy a whole new door for that.

  MATTHEW: He was. And that's not a knock on Braden, that's most people. You see something not working right and your brain goes straight to "it's broken, replace it." Nine times out of ten it's dirty or it's out of adjustment. Diagnose before you fix. That's kind of my whole thing.

  JESS: Okay, give the listeners something they can use today. Something that doesn't require the class.

  MATTHEW: Sure. If you've got a door that drags or a window that's drafty, before you do anything else, go buy a door sweep. Ten bucks, maybe twelve. Screws right onto the bottom of the door, seals the gap. Biggest bang for your buck of basically anything you can do in this whole category. I'd rather somebody put a door sweep on every exterior door in their house than buy one fancy tool.

  JESS: Not the felt kind though, right? I feel like I've heard you say something about felt.

  MATTHEW: No felt. I mean, do what you want, but felt weatherstripping compresses flat in one season and then it's not doing anything. It's cheap because it's not built to last. Spend the extra couple bucks on the V-strip kind, or a rubber one. Do it once.

  JESS: You sound very strongly about felt for a guy who's otherwise pretty chill.

  MATTHEW: It's a pet peeve. Everybody's got one.

  JESS: Fair. Okay, what's the class actually like, for people who haven't done a community-ed thing before.

  MATTHEW: It's hands-on. I'm not gonna stand up front with slides. I'll show you something once, then you're gonna try it, and I walk around and help whoever needs it. I've got tools, you don't need your own. Screwdriver, chisel, utility knife, caulk gun, putty knife, that's basically it, that's most of what we'll use all six weeks.

  JESS: Not a big toolbox guy.

  MATTHEW: I'm suspicious of people who buy a lot of tools instead of learning to use a few. That's just me.

  JESS: What's session two?

  MATTHEW: Session two we're doing sticking doors start to finish. Diagnosing whether it's the hinge, the frame, the door itself swollen from humidity, then actually planing it if it needs it. And I will tell you right now, I will tell the story about the first door I ever ruined, because I took off way more wood than I needed to and by summer there was a gap you could see daylight through.

  JESS: You always tell on yourself.

  MATTHEW: It's the one that taught me something. Shave less than you think, especially here, the wood moves with the seasons, dry in winter, swells up in summer. Take too much off in July and January you've got a draft.

  JESS: Bring your own door?

  MATTHEW: Ha. No, we've got practice doors set up in the room. Save your actual door for after you've done it on mine once.

  JESS: Good policy. Alright, that's episode one. Thursday, six o'clock, bring a water bottle and don't eat beforehand because I think there's usually snacks.

  MATTHEW: There's always snacks. Bring your questions too, that's the actual point.

• podcast_scriptClass podcast — episode 2

  Audio coming soon — show notes below.

  JESS: —so I said, no, you cannot bring the actual door into the studio, Matthew.

  MATTHEW: I would've made it work. It's not that big a door.

  JESS: It's a door. Okay. Welcome back, everybody, this is episode two, we're talking windows and weatherproofing today. Last week was doors, this week is drafts.

  MATTHEW: Which honestly is my favorite one. This is the fall walk-through stuff. This is where you get the most for the least amount of work.

  JESS: Explain that for people who didn't take episode one.

  MATTHEW: So every October I do a lap of my whole apartment. Same as I do laundry on Sundays. I go around and I check every door and window for drafts, gaps, stuff that's degraded since last year. And nine times out of ten the fix is weatherstripping. A ten-dollar door sweep will do more for a drafty house than almost anything else you could spend money on.

  JESS: And you have opinions about the kind of weatherstripping.

  MATTHEW: I have opinions about the felt kind. I don't like it. It's cheap, it's everywhere, and it compresses flat in one season and just quits on you.

  JESS: You've told this story before, right, with your friend Jason.

  MATTHEW: Jason and I redid his garage service door together, must've been three years ago now. He'd bought the felt stuff because it was what was at the store, cheapest option on the shelf. We put it up, looked great for about a day. Six months later it's flat as a pancake, might as well not be there.

  JESS: So what'd you do.

  MATTHEW: Tore it back off. Drove and got the V-strip, the vinyl kind, and did it right the second time. I still give him a hard time about it. Every time I'm at his place I'll tap the door and go, "how's that felt holding up, Jason."

  JESS: Bless him.

  MATTHEW: He knows it's coming at this point.

  JESS: Okay, so that's the door side. What about windows, because I feel like windows are where people panic and think they need a whole replacement.

  MATTHEW: That's super common, and a lot of the time it's not that bad. Diagnose before you fix, that's rule one. A window that's hard to open is usually just gunked up in the track or the lock's not adjusted right, not actually broken.

  JESS: But not always.

  MATTHEW: No. And I'll tell you the one time I got that wrong. I had a double-pane window at my place that had gone foggy between the panes, and I thought, I can fix this, I'll pop it apart and reseal it.

  JESS: Can you not do that.

  MATTHEW: You cannot do that. Once the seal's blown between the panes, that's it, it's a replacement job. I spent a whole evening trying to confirm this myself instead of just looking it up, which would've taken five minutes. But that's kind of how I learn things, unfortunately.

  JESS: I feel like that's a good one for people listening who aren't taking the class. If your window looks foggy or cloudy between the glass —

  MATTHEW: Don't mess with it yourself. That's a call-a-guy window, not a caulk-gun window. Save yourself the evening I lost.

  JESS: What's the actual practical tip, though, the thing someone could do tonight without any class or any tools they don't already own.

  MATTHEW: Go feel around your windows and doors with the back of your hand on a day when it's windy. If you feel air moving, that's your list. Don't guess, feel it. Half the battle is just finding where the draft actually is, because it's almost never where you think.

  JESS: And then what.

  MATTHEW: Then it's usually a five-dollar fix. Foam tape, a door sweep, maybe a tube of caulk. Just don't caulk it today if it's cold out, that's the other thing.

  JESS: You've got a story about that too, don't you.

  MATTHEW: Oh, the February window. Yeah. I caulked a whole window frame in the middle of winter once, way too cold, and the caulk never actually cured. Just stayed gummy. By March it was peeling off in strings, whole thing had to be redone. Now I preach the temperature range on the tube like it's scripture. Read the tube. It'll tell you the range. Respect it.

  JESS: Good life lesson generally.

  MATTHEW: Sure, put that on a poster.

  JESS: Okay, next session we're actually getting into caulk and sealant application hands-on, so bring a project if you've got one, a window or a door frame you've been putting off.

  MATTHEW: Bring the actual thing, not a description of the thing. I can't fix a story about a window.

  JESS: Noted. See everybody next week.

• podcast_scriptClass podcast — episode 3

  Audio coming soon — show notes below.

  JESS: —and I think that's the part people don't expect, that it's usually not broken, it's just dirty.

  MATTHEW: Right, that's like ninety percent of what I see. People come in ready to replace a whole door and it just needs the track vacuumed out.

  JESS: Okay wait, tell the track story. You told me this one at the coffee thing before we started recording and I want it on tape.

  MATTHEW: The sliding door one? Yeah, so this is Braden, from my ward. His sliding door had been sticking for months, and he's already looking up new doors online, pricing it out, kind of dreading it.

  JESS: How much is he expecting to spend.

  MATTHEW: I don't know, a thousand bucks, more maybe. And I go over and look at it and it's not the door at all. It's the track. Ten years of dog hair and grit just packed in there like insulation. I vacuum it out, wipe it down with a rag, and it slides like new.

  JESS: That's it.

  MATTHEW: That's it. Fifteen minutes. Braden felt kind of silly honestly, but I told him don't, that's a super common one. People assume the big fix before they check the easy thing.

  JESS: This is basically opinion number one from your syllabus, right, diagnose before you fix.

  MATTHEW: It's the whole thing. If a door's sticking or a window's stuck, before you grab a tool, figure out what's actually wrong. Is it dirty. Is it out of adjustment. Is a screw loose somewhere. Most of the time it's not structural, it's just neglected.

  JESS: So if somebody's listening right now and their sliding door sticks, what do they actually do, without taking the class.

  MATTHEW: Pull the door off the track if you can, or just get down there with a shop vac and the crevice tool and clean it out good. Then take an old rag, maybe a little damp, and wipe the track down so you get the fine grit that the vacuum missed. If there's a metal track, a little dry lubricant after that, not oil, oil just grabs more dust. That alone fixes probably half the sticking sliders out there.

  JESS: Not oil. Okay, noted, because I definitely would've grabbed WD-40.

  MATTHEW: Everybody does. It works for like a week and then it's worse than before because now the dust's got something to stick to.

  JESS: Bless you for saving me from myself. Okay, so this is week three, we've done doors, we've done windows a little, tell me where we are in the actual class right now.

  MATTHEW: So this week in the room we did latches and strike plates, mostly, and started in on tracks and hinges. Next week we're moving into weatherstripping, which honestly is my favorite session.

  JESS: You said that about the last one too.

  MATTHEW: No I don't think I did, doors are fine, but weatherstripping is where you actually feel it. You do the work in an afternoon and that night the house feels different. Less draft, quieter even. It's the best return for the least effort out of anything we cover.

  JESS: You're not doing caulk that day though, right, because I know you've got opinions about caulk.

  MATTHEW: Caulk's the week after. And yeah I've got opinions. Wrong temperature and it just never cures right. I caulked a whole window one February morning years ago, felt good about myself, and by March it was peeling off in strings. Now I check the tube like it's scripture. If it's under whatever temperature it says, you're wasting your time, just wait for a decent day.

  JESS: Practical takeaway people can use tonight, though, before next session.

  MATTHEW: If your house feels drafty right now, go check your door sweeps. That rubber strip along the bottom of exterior doors. If it's cracked or gapped or missing, that's probably your biggest leak, bigger than most windows even. A new one's ten bucks at the hardware store and it's a screwdriver and twenty minutes.

  JESS: Ten dollars.

  MATTHEW: Ten dollars. I tell people this every fall when I do my walk-through, it's the cheapest fix in the whole house for the amount of difference it makes.

  JESS: You really do a walk-through every October.

  MATTHEW: Every October. Same as I bake Thursdays, I just need the routine or I won't get to it. Last time I did it I found a gap under the utility door a mouse had gotten through. Steel wool and a door sweep, done, no more mouse. Small thing but I was pretty pleased with myself for about a week.

  JESS: As you should be. Okay, so next session, weatherstripping, and the week after that, caulk and sealing, and you're bringing the V-strip versus felt debate.

  MATTHEW: Oh we're doing that one live. I've got a piece of felt that's already flat and useless after one season sitting right next to a V-strip that's still doing its job. People can feel the difference with their hands, that usually settles it.

  JESS: I feel like there's a Jason story in there somewhere.

  MATTHEW: There's always a Jason story. Save it for next week.

  JESS: Fair enough. Alright, that's episode three, see everybody Tuesday.

Videos worth your time

Hand-picked by your instructor, with notes on what to watch for.

• 
  How To Fix a Sagging Door that's Rubbing or Won't Close!!!

  The Funny Carpenter

  Watch for the three different fixes shown for a sagging door so you can pick the one that matches your specific hinge or frame problem.

• 
  How To Weatherstrip Your Exterior Door: Keep The Cold Out

  DIY Playbook

  Pay attention to how the door sweep and weatherstripping are measured and cut before installing, since a sloppy fit will let drafts back in.

• 
  Window Air Sealing Techniques | Ask This Old House

  This Old House

  Notice how the Ask This Old House pros test for air leaks first, since finding the actual gap is the key step before choosing a sealing method.

Practice corner

6 quizzes and 2 games. Playable by anyone, no account needed.