The tools worth owning (and the ones you can skip)
Okay. Before we touch a single bike, let's talk tools, because this is where people either waste money or don't spend enough, and both mistakes are avoidable.
Here's the thing. You don't need a whole wall of stuff to keep a bike running. You need a handful of decent tools and the willingness to use them gently. That's low key the whole class in one sentence.
What to actually buy
Tire levers. Three bucks for a set of plastic ones. Get them. Don't use a screwdriver, don't use a butter knife, don't use whatever's already in your kitchen drawer. I've seen people gouge a rim or slice a tube trying to pry a tire off with the wrong thing, and then they're buying a tube anyway plus they're mad about it. Just get the levers.
A set of Allen keys (hex keys). Most of what you'll adjust on a bike, brakes, seat post, stem, uses these. Get a decent set, not the free one from a bin somewhere. Cheap Allen keys round off, and once a bolt head is rounded you're in a whole different, worse project.
Chain lube, made for bikes. Not WD-40, not olive oil, not whatever's on the shelf in the garage. Bike-specific lube is cheap and it's the right viscosity so it doesn't attract every bit of trail dust into a paste. More on that some other lesson, I've got opinions about over-lubing.
A rag or two. Sounds dumb. You'll use them constantly. Wiping down a chain matters more than people think.
A floor pump with a gauge. This is the one place I'd tell you to spend a little more. A cheap pump with no gauge means you're guessing at pressure, and wrong pressure causes half the "my bike feels weird" complaints I hear.
That's your starter kit. Maybe forty, fifty bucks total if you're not fancy about it, and that'll get you most of the way there for basic maintenance.
What you can skip, at least for now
A truing stand. Everybody assumes you need one to fix a wobbly wheel, and you don't, not to start. You can true a wheel well enough using your own fork as the reference point. Zip-tie something to the fork leg near the rim, spin the wheel, and watch where the rim rubs against it. Tighten or loosen spokes accordingly. It's not shop-precision, but it'll stop the rub and get you riding.
I say this partly because I did buy a truing stand eventually, and it did not go how I planned. Found one on a marketplace listing, drove clear up past the point of the mountain to grab it because the price was right, and got it home only to find out it was warped. Not a little warped. Enough that it introduced its own wobble into the reading. I used it for a year anyway. I'm thrifty before I'm picky, and that's a real character flaw some days, but the point stands: if I'd started with the zip-tie method and just gotten comfortable with that, I'd have saved myself a drive and some money. Buy the stand later, if you catch the bug and start doing this for other people too. Don't lead with it.
A torque wrench, unless you're working on carbon parts. Most of what we're doing this class is steel and aluminum, forgiving stuff. You don't need to torque to spec, you need to not crank things down like you're angry at them.
A full tool chest of specialty stuff, bottom bracket tools, cassette tools, chain whips. That's shop territory for now. You'll know if you get there.
The opinion I want you to actually absorb
Right tool, gentle first. If you're forcing a bolt, either you've got the wrong size Allen key or you're about to round it off. I rounded one off years ago trying to muscle it instead of stopping to check, and I ended up drilling the thing out, which is a whole miserable afternoon you don't want. So: if it's not turning easy, stop. Check the size. Check the direction. Then go again.
Before next time
If you don't already have tire levers and a set of Allen keys, grab them before our next session, they're cheap and you'll want them in hand. Costco or Macey's won't have the levers, but any hardware or sporting goods aisle will.