Utah Community Learning

Getting through our hot dry afternoons

About 15 minutes

Getting Through Our Hot Dry Afternoons

Okay. We've spent this whole module on cold, because cold is what actually kills your plants here. But I'd be lying if I said the hot afternoons don't cause their own kind of trouble, so let's talk about that.

Here's the thing about our afternoons in July and August. It's not just the heat. It's the heat plus the dry air plus the elevation, all working together to pull moisture out of your plants faster than they can pull it back up from the roots. You'll walk out at 3pm and see your squash leaves drooping like they're dying, and honestly, most of the time they're not. They're just doing the plant version of squinting.

First, learn to tell wilted from dying

If your plants droop in the afternoon sun and then look fine again by evening or the next morning, that's normal. That's the plant managing its water loss, not a crisis. I used to panic about this my first year and go out there with a hose every time a leaf looked sad. Don't do that.

The real test is the morning check. Go out early, before the sun's really hit the bed, and look at those same plants. If they've bounced back, they're fine. If they're still droopy in the cool of the morning, that's when you've got an actual water problem, and that's when you go check with your finger like we talked about a few lessons back. Stick it down two inches. If it's dry down there, water deep. If it's damp, leave it alone.

Mulch is doing more work than you think

I'll say this plainly: if you're not mulching in a Utah County summer, you're making the afternoons harder on your plants than they need to be. A couple inches of straw or shredded leaves over your beds keeps the soil temperature down and slows how fast that dry air pulls the moisture out. It's the single easiest thing you can do that isn't watering more.

I use straw because it's cheap and I can get it in bulk, but shredded leaves work too if you saved bags from fall. Just don't use anything treated with herbicide, because that'll sit in your soil and mess with your vegetables. Ask before you take somebody's bagged leaves.

Shade cloth for the worst weeks

For the stretch in late July when we get those stubborn hundred-degree days, I put shade cloth over my lettuce and my peppers, the stuff that either bolts or scalds in direct afternoon sun. You can buy it by the foot at most garden centers, and you just drape it over a simple frame of stakes or hoops, nothing fancy. Take it off in the evening once the sun's low, or leave it up the whole week if you're not around to fuss with it daily.

Tomatoes generally don't need this. They actually like the heat, within reason. It's the leafy stuff and anything that bolts to seed under stress that benefits most.

Watch for sunscald, not just wilting

If you've got peppers or tomatoes with leaves that got stripped off from pruning or wind, the fruit underneath can actually get sunscald, which looks like a pale, papery patch on the skin facing the sun. It's not a disease, it's a burn. If you see it, just leave the foliage alone for a while and let the plant grow its own shade back.

A word about my journal, and Keith

I keep notes on all of this in my garden journal, because after three summers I still can't remember from one year to the next which beds bake the worst in August. I'll draw little sketches too, mostly of leaves that are doing something odd so I can compare later. I showed Keith a sketch of a squash leaf once, one of the big ones with the notches, and he looked at it for a second and asked if it was a map. It kind of is, honestly. It's a map of what that plant looked like on July 14th so I can tell in September whether it got worse or better. I've decided that's a perfectly good use for a rough pencil drawing and I'm not going to feel bad about my art skills.

The bottom line

Our hot dry afternoons look dramatic. Droopy leaves, crispy edges, plants that seem like they're begging for water every single day. Most of that is normal stress response, not damage. Mulch, water deep when your finger tells you to, and save the shade cloth for the worst days and the touchiest plants. The mistake I see beginners make is watering shallow every single evening because the plants look sad, and that just trains the roots to stay lazy near the surface where it's hottest. Deep and less often wins, even in August. Especially in August.

Before next time: go check your mulch layer, and if you're down to bare dirt showing through, add more before the next hot stretch hits. - D

Getting through our hot dry afternoons — Vegetable Gardening at Altitude · Utah Community Learning